And, any mistakes are way less likely to burn out any LEDs. This not the Meanwell driver so no option to opening it up. Your name or email address: Any ideas what might be going on? Should be an easy fix if we can chase down the problem. Krazie Here is a pic of how I have it wired if it helps. According to the numbers supplied by each vendor the Ebay diodes should be a little more powerful than the Bridgelux, but I’ll take that with a grain of salt, the optics only focus the light inward, good to know, and I’ve learn a bit about the numbers I’m looking for so not a bad night for an old man.
|Date Added:||10 June 2015|
|File Size:||25.48 Mb|
|Operating Systems:||Windows NT/2000/XP/2003/2003/7/8/10 MacOS 10/X|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
That’s what they are labeled. Yeah, Nails is ked, three post pots have a high side, one of the outer solder tabs; a low side, the other outer solder tab and the center tab needs to go to ground.
Aquastyle or RapidLED?
So, they should do at least lumens at mAmps. Just curious what knowing the model will tell you? Fat Correct me if I’m wrong but every 3 tab POT I have ever used was setup so that is you connected to the two outside dimmablw then you had the full resistance all the time between them.
Note that passwords are case-sensitive. Supposedly they emit lumens at mAmps.
I would strongly contest that testing. I appreciate all the help but the price isn’t good enough to out weigh the risk for me and I’m not good enough to throw this first one together without any instruction. The Rapid website has this notation next to the Potentiometer: Does the model matter for this? I like the prices and packages from www. I added a picture to the first post to show how I have it all hooked up.
The higher the voltage the brighter the leds. The light I now use on my 65 gallon tank uses those Chinese unbranded LEDs, and it has worked great for about 2 years now. Obviously the LEDs are not wired reverse bias as they are lighting up. Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links.
The wires going to your pot. Maxweloen did this for a little bit too. I dont have a dimmable one but from what i understand the dimmer needs voltage applied for the driver to turn on. BB code is On. After sleeping on this for a night I’m starting to questions why one dimmabls would work with 20 3w LEDs and the other with 7 and 2 of them aare blue is too much? Krazie Here is a pic of how I have it wired if it helps.
Pot has 3 prongs.
DIY LED info needed! (done) – The Planted Tank Forum
This one is 14 emitters with 2 dimmable drivers. I’ve got everything wired and ready.
It’s just the dimmer portion that is not working and resistors are not directional. Do the pots you have, have 3 protrusions?
What kind of par reading do you think I would get from my list of materials below, dimmed and wide open. There is no reason to drive whatever LEDs you get to near their maximum current, so you can save some more on the driver and the heatsink. I will make some type of enclosure and add a fan but making two would be awesome and might pay for my light.
In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register. I don’t want to bleach or shock my corals with the major shift in light and really need to be able to slowly increase the brightness.
That is all the light you really need, and you will probably get even more than that. But at there site they have a section called LED University and I need to learn, here they suggest you open up the driver and turn down the SVR2, is this something I need to do?
Well, maybe some value, in that they reduce the amount of light striking the inside of the tank glass, and thus might reduce the green dust algae problem. And, I assumed that the specs in the Ebay listing would be exaggerated a bit, so I would use more LEDs than might be necessary.